Womenswear trends

Checks

Leather

Super-soft and boxy, leather was a quiet presence in many ranges in the directional Atmosphère area at Prêt and at Who's Next. No single silhouette unified the look, although classic Perfecto-inspired biker jackets were present in black and brown alongside contemporary bomber jackets and 1960s-inspired looks. Stand-out pieces included a shrunken laundered leather bomber with an exaggerated wristband.

Florals

The floral prints popularised across womenswear in spring 08 were given another outing for autumn, providing distraction from an otherwise sombre colour palette. Tropical flowers in bold orange and red emblazoned maxi dresses, with condensed repeat florals significant in daywear, from shirting to day dresses. Interpretations were diverse, running from illustrative to painted, and from bold to muted.

Embellishment

Simple long-lined and sinuous dresses were gilded with molten gold sequins, while sleeves adorned with pyramid studs or all-over metal discs added armoured drama to simple shifts and even tailoring. Tiered panels of beading gave movement to eveningwear. This intricate beading also covered necklines, hems and cuffs while chunky gem-like jewels added a girlish edge to fluid dresses.

Chunky knits

Brands used texture to create decorative patterns and knit details on chunky outerwear designed as an alternative to outerwear for our milder autumns. Heavy argyll knits inspired much of the raised texture, with thick cable stitching and a handcrafted feel informing many brands. Contrast panels on the body and sleeves was a key look, as were tonal flower corsages and attached scarves.

Ruffles, pleats and pin tucks

Ruffles are inextricably linked with the romantic floral trend, and some interpretations in Paris resembled handcrafted petals. Waterfall ruffles perked up simple shapes, adorning every edge, from collars to cuffs. Elsewhere, structured ruffles added architectural detail to trench coats, shirts and dresses. Pin tucking was widely used as a bib detail, with pleats adding body and texture to silk tunic dresses and shirt dresses.